Sidelined for centuries, amethyst is making a rightful return to the forefront of fine jewellery, says Maria Doulton.
There is something deeply alluring about the glossy purple depths of amethyst. And it’s not just me being whimsical. In ancient times amethyst was so rare that it was right up there with diamond, emerald and ruby. The Ancient Greeks optimistically believed amethyst could protect from drunkenness, hence its name derived from amethusos, which roughly means sober.
Unfortunately, these qualities have neither stood the test of time nor science, but it does explain why the Greeks carved drinking cups out of amethyst. Imagine a wine glass that prevented you from getting tipsy. If only.
The fate of amethyst changed when new, abundant deposits were discovered around the world, downgrading it to semi-precious. Cheap, pale, low-quality amethyst became the stuff of South American tourist tat. But all is forgiven and majestic amethyst, the most precious of the quartz family, has once again been raised to its rightful place.
The best amethyst is increasingly rare and defined by an evenly saturated glossy deep purple colour with flashes of mauve. Recently I have spotted amethyst centre stage in highly valuable jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard and Bulgari. Young and edgy British designer Duffy created the Odyssey necklace with a magnificent golden bird clutching a drop shaped amethyst in its beak that looks fit for an intergalactic princess.
And the more I look, the more amethyst I see. Kara Ross, purveyor of some of the most cool and chic jewels to come out of the United States, has a large amethyst collection this year and has even designed pieces for the Obamas using American amethyst. “I love purple because it is such an energetic and powerful colour,” she tells me.
British jewellery designer Rodney Rayner, the go-to man for colour, says: “I love using amethyst, it’s such a rich and royal colour. It always looks super luxurious, whether it’s facetted, as in our Via Roma ring, or a simple, beautiful cabochon.” Kiki McDonough, another British brand known for its abundant and joyful use of coloured stones combines it with acid bright green peridots.
So, start thinking purple: it’s going to be big this year.
By Maria Doulton
January 11, 2014 07:00
For
The Telegraph